Sheet Metal Shear

I sought it out myself because I want to create my views clear on a music performance of my home theater system.

I have a universe with columns HC 4280XH boxes.
It describes it, 3350 watts of music power.
However, I do not go 3 things in mind.

The 4 pillars each have 80 watt speakers.
On the subwoofer is 120 watts and 80 watts on the Center.

It describes, but in the description:

3350 watts peak power:
5x530 watts + 700 watt subwoofer
(5x53 + 70 W RMS 0.3% THD)

I do not see through what it is meant.
Especially since, to me it did not even up to 3350 watts before, but a maximum of 500 watts if my ears did not deceive themselves with a fully turned up facility. Had times been an attachment, which I have returned. The 1550 Watt said to have had, but was quieter than my regular Blech'scher music.

Can someone explain to me how such a home theater system in music performance or clay will moderate calculated in watts?

3350 watts really would be so loud that I would have beeping in time ears.

The RMS power is the only one who makes a halfway viable proposition.

When you see the ratio of peak power to RMS power, then it is quite clear: = maximum RMS power simply multiplied by 10.

Typical Bauernfängerrei: Performance has nothing to do with sound quality and little to do with volume, even if it is suggested, especially in low-priced products to customers.

I can hang a 5 watt per channel tube amp with a pair Klipschorn and blows lautstärkemäßig any normal stereo system with true 200-300 watts per channel into the wall.
The decisive factor is not the only performance but also the efficiency of the speakers.
And who is with the usual hi-fi speakers only mediocre to poor.
In a box with an efficiency of 82 dB / W / m for the same volume I have to pump 10 times as much power as a box with an efficiency of 88 db / W / m and 100 times as much power as a by 94 db / W / m

Nope, that's not true. +6 DB is achieved with 4-fold performance. The jump from 82 to 96dB then takes 16 times the performance, not 100-fold. Note: 10-fold power = +10 dB.

The sine indication of the distortion factor can even draw conclusions about the actual performance. At 53W continuous power can be assumed that a maximum 70-get out 90W per channel. Moreover, the distortion factor in the 53W is already relatively high. Much will no longer be there.
If the amplifier section but actually really deliver ~ 70W per channel at the same load, he is already better than most AVRs that are currently being sold as.

When the universe gives himself 53 Watt sinus / channel, once I type in "real" 20 watts, that is 100 watts sine plus subwoofer. Mach dir mal no illusions that goes here!
For many manufacturers, the performance of the channel is measured and then multiplied INDIVIDUALLY. When all channels are loaded, the benefit is usually not achieved. What's on the power supply label on the back? MORE can have the thing in any event ...

The Yamahas with 5x 110 Watts had in measuring 28 watts / ch ...

So, what you write to me here, I do not see through, for me it purely technical terms and only for connoisseurs, I come with no unfortunately.


I do not understand many things. The receiver is a universe of DVD-DR 4070 and has a power of 90 watts and rear stands.

The front and rear speakers have their own socket and the center and the subwoofer.
Since I do not understand, again, back is Characterized at the boxes that they are received at the Center have each 80 watts and the subwoofer has been marked with 120 watts.

In the description you write this one:

Audio output
Audio:

L / R 1 Vrms, 47kOhm

Stereo Audio Output Power:

53W + 53W (6Ohm at 1 kHz, THD 0.3%)

Surround:

Front: 53W + 53W (6Ohm at 1 kHz, THD 0.3%)

Center: 53W (6Ohm at 1kHz, THD 0.3%)

Surround: 53W + 53W (6Ohm at 1 kHz, THD 0.3%)

Subwoofer:

70W (4 ohm at 80 kHz, THD 0.3%)

Audio Maximum 3350 Watts (5 x 530 W + 700 W)

700 W Subwoofer

The original is now copied from the description.
There's nothing to me in my head.
Me everything foreign.

How many watts can I expect now? Shall I go on what I said the speakers label?
Or should I divide 90 watts by the receiver by 6?

Well, so I have very little watts!
The whole system seemed to me 269 euros.
But no one I can say how many watts do I now have a regular listening pleasure?
And why the company for writing up such a shit, 3350 watts ?????
We wrote to the new car is not 1000 hp, and in fact only 177 hp or so.

It's really getting not in the bulb.

Now here are definitely the one and the other an electrician, I had taught the times, but the calculations are unknown to me for music performances.
Therefore, a question for everyone what you think of Pimp My receiver??

I wonder whether I haue purely a stronger transformer. Or what do you think that there may upgrade with components from Conrad??

I could change really have any idea how many watts you?

Why write the 3350 watts on it, I have already written: humbug!

It will be suggested, which means many watts = lots of good sound and good volume, which is not the case!

The information on the speakers:
This is an indication of how much power the speakers tolerated indefinitely. How much power has the receiver has nothing to do.

Among the 90 watts that are behind on the nameplate on it:
This is the average intake Rated power = power at average volume level. This information is NOT the maximum power!

The real power of the system is indeed in the manual:
5x 53 watts + 1 x 70 watts for the subwoofer.
But it is unlikely that apply to 53 watts with simultaneous operation of all 5 channels.
The trick that is because most manufacturers and measure the performance when only 1 single channel is in operation.
With simultaneous operation of all channels then the performance often drops significantly, because the power of the receiver can not supply enough power sufficient to supply all 5 channels.
But that's not quite as dramatic as it is rare in surround operation simultaneously on all 5 channels power is required.

However, I have another question.
Is it possible to assemble a receiver with more watts?
That means replace the power supply, which has 120 watts continuous output instead of 90 watts.
Which device actually makes in the sound receiver, power supply? Or power amps?
Who brings the power of the boxes??

With these, I would like to share then install the part and a more powerful. However, limited to Watts, and consistent with the number of volts.

The DVD player is still included, even at the same time takes away bit performance.

I really think you lack basic elektrotchnisches Basic. I will not pretend that you once your receiver "Pimpen can." Fang times to understand what a resistor, inductor, capacitor, diode, transistor, and how you can build circuits and thus the parameters that influence where and how and why. Then you build times after 1-3 years of your own little audio amplifier

I suppose this is a time paasiver Car-sub, right?

The performance will indeed depend on the amplifier used, which should be min. 500 W sinus auszureizen to have the sub.

More does not hurt, we can only just do not turn up too loud. If it is distorted, it's just too much and turning softer.

This simply means that the driver can handle 500W, without taking electrical damage. Ausreizen Mechanic you can safely and significantly below the sub-500W. But this is dependent on the housing and the vote.